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Mask Making Demo Part A by Qarrezel Mask Making Demo Part A by Qarrezel
An overview to explain how we mold and cast our mask bases.

PLEASE READ the whole description! It explains all the steps, lists materials used here, and links to smooth-on.com where I buy my rubbers and resins.
I WILL NOT answer any questions the answers to which are in the descriptions or can easily be answered with a visit to smooth-on's website (or even a quick google search). I will also not detail this process further.

WEAR CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, A RESPIRATOR, AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!
I'll say it again:
WEAR CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, A RESPIRATOR, AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!
DO NOT DO THIS NEAR FOOD SURFACES! DO NOT EAT OR DRINK NEAR YOUR WORK AREA! DO NOT HANDLE OR USE THESE CHEMICALS NEAR CHILDREN OR PETS!
If I see anyone else blatantly ignoring basic safety precautions, I absolutely will take this tutorial down.

Description of steps:

1.) I start with a model in wax based plasteline. This model is done over a full head cast, but it could also be done over a face cast or any other form.

2.) I build up a rim around the sculpture, to create a retaining ledge for the silicone.

3.) Bits of clay to add support to the ledge.

4.) The head cast is laid flat and leveled. I am using a tin-cure silicone* to make the mold. Both parts of the liquid rubber are measured into mixing cups, along with a thickening agent to make brush-on easier**.

5.) The two parts are thoroughly mixed together, and then brushed onto the model. After layer one has cured mostly, I add a second layer of rubber.

6.) I quickly cast two rectangular pieces in the same silicone, which I will cut up and use to make keys (keys hold the floppy rubber more securely in the mother mold)***

7.) I add a third layer of rubber, and stick the key pieces onto the curing surface. They will permanantly fuse to the rubber as it finishes curing.

8.) Once layer three has cured, I brush on a fourth and final layer. When that layer is cured, I draw a parting line down the middle, to use as a guideline for making the mothermold.

CONTINUED:
Part B - [link] Part C - [link]

------------------------------------------------------------------

* This is not typically the rubber of choice for a brush-on mold, and this rubber in particular is formulated to be poured. Also, it has a short library life in relation to a platinum-cure silicone, and is prone to tearing. However, it's a somewhat cheaper sort of rubber than a platinum silicone, and I get the brush-on to work fine for me. Also, a high mold-turnover rate is almost ideal for me, since I tend to update these molds often, anyway. But in general I recommend platinum cure silicones - Rebound 25 from smooth-on is a favorite of many.

** Although this thickening agent, in the case of the particular silicone I am using, more accelerates the cure speed than actually thickens the rubber outright. It works for me.

*** This is totally my own freaky way of doing keys. I have never heard of anyone else keying like this, and that's because it's just silly. However, it's fast and cheap, so I'm doing it, so there.

Materials used here:
head lifecast
sulphur-free plasteline (Jolly King brand)
OOMOO 30 from smooth-on
Chemical-resistant nitrile gloves
Paper cups and popsicle sticks (for mixing)

To learn more about the materials I'm using, and to learn more about mold making and casting basics, visit Smooth-On.com: [link]
Add a Comment:
 
:iconbeestinqs:
beestinqs Featured By Owner Jul 7, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
so making these is really dangerous? (Hence the respirator etc) hmm.
Reply
:iconqarrezel:
Qarrezel Featured By Owner Jul 8, 2014  Professional Artisan Crafter
Yes, one can develop a pretty severe sensitivity/allergy to the liquid resins, and you must protect against skin contact and vapor inhalation.
Reply
:iconshelandrystudio:
ShelandryStudio Featured By Owner Feb 19, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
sweet, thank you for sharing
Reply
:iconl-a-b-r-a-d-o-r:
L-A-B-R-A-D-O-R Featured By Owner Jan 7, 2014
how easy is it to get the clay sculpt off of the head after molding?
Reply
:iconpickledshoe:
pickledshoe Featured By Owner Jan 1, 2014  Student General Artist
So after reading the smooth on information I assume  you must have a vacuum pump and chamber then? I am looking into wanting to make my own resin mask for cosplay I want to do in the future.  I am only wanting to do this one mask would a polyurethane mold be more suited for a one time use, or could I get away with out having to use a vacuum. I really don't want to have to shell out so much cash just to use silicone.

 Sorry if my questions seem dumb i'm just trying to learn as much as I can and I figured you would have some good advice for a newbie.
Reply
:iconpickledshoe:
pickledshoe Featured By Owner Jan 1, 2014  Student General Artist
Oh god sorry I just found the OOMOO 25,30 silicone and that requires no vacuuming thank god!Tthat clears up that problem sorry for being a spaz.
Reply
:iconturnipberry:
turnipBerry Featured By Owner Dec 20, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
For the initial sculpture of the head, are you using clay? 
Reply
:iconwolflord123:
WolfLord123 Featured By Owner Nov 11, 2013
do you sell masks ?
Reply
:iconselparda:
Selparda Featured By Owner Oct 30, 2013
You are very nice who showing a good tutorial for free :-D <3
But is it air drying clay or ovenbake or just clay that don't need to be hard?
And can i make a mask this way but not just have mask on the face, but on the whole head?
And is the best way to make a solid, easy to lift, pretty and not so fast hot mask to make it with resin?
Reply
:iconselparda:
Selparda Featured By Owner Oct 26, 2013
so the face you made first is just something you just take out when that you took on the top have dried? And when the mask is finished, is it easy to lift, can withstand a lot and does not heat up so fast?
Reply
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